SAN JUAN DEL MONTE, Philippines - It all starts with a ticket printed on fancy thermal paper purchased at 45 Pesos. The fare will cover a Pasig "river cruise" from Guadalupe in Makati down river to the Escolta in Manila.With its strategic location, the Pasig paved the way for communication, transportation, and trade in the Metro Manila area long before roads were conceived - it is, in many ways, considered Manila's "first highway."
Surprisingly, the infamous odor of the Pasig was absent upon boarding the twin-engine catamaran with blue plastic seats. Only the songs of Air Supply, played loudly with passengers singing along, could be the source of nausea. Otherwise, for a first-timer, the initiation was sweet and inviting.
Amidst the highrises of Mandaluyong and advertising billboards, the river has a somewhat calming effect that brings to mind the countless tales and legends spawned over the centuries. If only this river could speak, what lore and wonders would it tell.
The Pasig is, after all, an old river of which historian Nick Joaquin wrote in Manila, My Manila:
"Manila took a long time to make. What is now its ground used to be sea. The sea reached as far as the present towns of Mandaluyong ("a place of waves") and Makati ("a place of tides")...
No one knows how long it took to turn sea into land. But we do know who built a site for Manila.
The builder was the Pasig River."
The river did, in fact, speak though quietly through the structures on its banks and the people who continue to patronize its murky waters.
Greeting the ferry were throngs of naked children and the occasional teenager showing off their diving prowess. Their somersaults are a joy to watch until the thought of cleanliness and hygiene enters the mind. Along the promenade, curious bystanders wave intently at the incoming catamaran.
The Rockwell Center 
Abandoned Noah's Ark Sugar Refinery
Further down stream, the Pasig's industrial heritage is seen. Rows of warehouses, factories, depots and rusty ships line the riverbank where children play and multi-colored shanties rise. It may seem dangerous to be living so close to possible hazardous waste and chemicals, but the informal settlers never seem to mind.
Children swim in front of factory
Informal settlers along the Pasig
Abandoned warehouses
In the olden days, houses of the rich and famous were built along the riverbanks. Historic Santa Ana, though saddled with its own industries, gives the passenger a rare glimpse into life when the Pasig was still clean. Majestic houses with riverside facades, gazebos and small docks jutting out above the waters.
The lush greenery of PUP's riverside promenade was a pleasant relief from the grey of concrete and brown rust. A throng of students enter the ferry while others waited in an older, derelict station for a rickety pumpboat to come. This small, wooden ferry charges only Php10 to either cross the river or take passengers to small docks along the Pasig.
Old ferry dock at PUP
The 20 peso bill in full color!
The same scenery greets passengers after the PUP station. The same pockets of green, tangled water hyacinths, various stages of urban decay, and industries definitely becomes a bore. Until the Presidential Security Guard, present in every ferry, speaks over the PA system and reminds everyone that picture-taking is strictly prohibited in the Malacanang area.
The ferry slowed as old, grand mansions came into view and old trees towered over the riverbanks. Then, gleaning in the afternoon sun, there she was - the stately Malacanang Palace. Across is the Malacanang Park home to a golf course. The place retains a certain grandeur and pomp even after years of scandal and intrigue. There is an unusual solemnity to the place, as waves gently rock the ferry, that gives the passenger a vision of the past.
Last stop - Escolta, Manila
After the Malacanang area, picture-taking is allowed once more. The tiny islet on which the Hospicio de San Jose stands and the steel-beamed Ayala bridge greets the ferry as it enters "downtown Manila."
The Ayala Bridge
Hospicio de San Jose
In front of the islet is an unusual clump of lush greenery. This is the Arroceros Forrest Park - the last lung of Manila.
Arroceros Forrest park
Suddenly, Escolta's highrises come into view. It was the place to be and be seen until the spectacular rise of Makati and like the Pasig has seen better times.
Buildings along the Escolta's river promenade
Manila Central Post Office
The Escolta is a fitting end of a cruise along the Pasig River. Once the jewel of Manila's elite, it is now an empty shell, a glint of its former glory. The Pasig tells a similar story - a river once the source of civilization and livelihood now a dirty, hazardous, festering gash cutting through Metro Manila.
All is not lost
Jimbo Mallari Public Information Officer of the Pasig River Rehabilitation Commission (PRRC)said there is hope for the Pasig River.
"Since the implementation of the 'Buhayin ang Pasig' program in the late 90's the fish have slowly returned to the river... and less garbage is collected weekely."
The Pasig river was declared "biologically dead" in the mid-nineties.
Mallari said the direct source of river pollution are the informal settlers who live along the riverbanks. The PRRC, he said, with the help of the Metro Manila Development Authority have fast tracked the relocation of more than 10,000 families who used to live along the river.
"Without them (informal settlers) the river is free from direct sources of pollution and garbage."
However, cleaning the Pasig means a lot more than just resettling people. Mallari stressed industies must play their part in ensuring their sewage is properly treated and their waste by-products are properly disposed.
"The PRRC has a 15-year action plan to upgrade the Pasig from 'biologically dead' to 'Class C.'"
Class C means minimal debris, ideal for boating and safe for plant and animal life. He said the River Ferry project is part of this long term plan.
"Through the Ferries we want to make the PRRC agenda the public agenda as well... we already have full government support all we need is the help of the citizens, themselves."
Mallari stressed that travelling through the Pasig gives people a glimpse of what needs to be done.
"The Pasig is part of our heritage and culture... it gives us a sense of belonging... it must be treasured."
But to clean the Pasig, its esteros - San Juan River and Marikina River - must be cleaned as well.
"It's always been uphill for us... this is an ambitious plan, but with the help and support of the people, we will all succeed." Mallari issued a caveat, "Pero kung matigas naman ang mga ulo ng tao walang pupuntahan ang project na 'to." ("But if people remain hard-headed, this project will go nowhere.")
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